ln: bound receive-listener wait, phase-aware watchdog, re-enable health check

Give waitanyinvoice an explicit 30s server-side timeout so a dead/half-open
socket can no longer hold the listener indefinitely; CLN's 904 timeout during a
quiet period is treated as a clean re-arm without counting as a failure. Split
the listener into waiting vs processing phases so the watchdog never resets a
healthy socket merely because a ledger write is slow, and never starts a second
concurrent processor — a stalled processing phase is surfaced loudly instead.
Process the settlement and confirm the durable payment pointer BEFORE advancing
pay_index, so a store load/restart between the cursor write and credit() cannot
drop a received payment. Expose listener status and add a backlog probe to the
health check, and re-enable startHealthCheck().

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 4.8 <[email protected]>
Claude-Session: https://claude.ai/code/session_01XiwgmQKwKnRxUmVDd4xSf7

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